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Training endurance without a partner – Rock climbing on the TRUBLUE Auto Belay

Chris Wall here with the Boulder Rock Club in Boulder, CO Today I want to talk to you about training in the gym for endurance The climbing gym is a very safe environment for you to train to get stronger and learn how to climb more effectively Most of the time you will be climbing with a partner, but on occasion you’re going to have to fly solo Today I’m going to talk to you about how to train endurance when you’re by yourself When you’re training by yourself, the auto belay is going to become your new best friend All the things that you could do with a top rope belayer, you can do with an auto belay So whether it’s climbing all the way up, and then lowering yourself down or climbing all the way up and climbing all the way back down, you can do this by yourself all the while protected by the auto belay There are many, many different strategies when it comes to training your endurance for climbing When you use an auto belay, the only thing that’s really going to be limiting you is your creativity All the things you could do with a partner, you can do with an auto belay But now you don’t have to switch back and forth with your partner because you’re doing everything else on your own Whether you want to be on, working on super long endurance routes where you’re climbing 5 pitches at a time, or whether you’re staying on the wall for as long as possible climbing up, down, back up, down It doesn’t matter which strategy you choose, all are going to be effective and all should be based on your personal goals But with the auto belay, you’ll be able to do all these things without being hampered by having a partner who has their own needs to fulfill At the most basic level when it comes to training endurance, consider what it is that you’re training for If you’re trying to do long, traditional routes that are, god knows, 100, 120, 150 feet long, you need to be spending that much time on the wall which means you’re going to be climbing up, down, up, and possibly up and back down again depending on how tall your gym is If you’re training for more moderate power endurance, maybe you’re just going to up then lower yourself back down, rest for a very short period of time, and then go up again You can do this any number of times depending on your personal level of fitness and what it is that you’re training for When training alone, the bouldering cave is a great place to not only work on your power and your technique, but also your endurance One of my favorite ways of working endurance is utilizing a technique called a 4×4 Choose 4 moderate to difficult boulder problems that you can do Get on the first one, climb it, come down, climb it again, come down, climb it again, come down, climb it again. That’s 4 attempts on 1 problem Take a little rest, anywhere from 2 to 5 minutes and them move on to the next problem Repeat 4 times And then the same thing for the 3rd problem, same for the 4th problem Each problem 4 times, 4 problems. 4×4 So the bouldering area is a great place to work your endurance You can do long traverses, much longer sometimes than what you would do in terms of number of moves climbing up the wall Or you can do big, looping circuits And you can do one lap, 2 laps, 3 laps, back and forth, literally hundreds of moves without stepping off the wall This is a fantastic way not only to maintain your concentration when you’re getting tired, but also to work your physical stamina and endurance So those are just a few ways to train endurance without a partner For more information, check out Thanks for watching this video

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